Near the climax of Ratatouille, an unsuspecting waiter takes an order from Anton Ego, the harshest food critic in Paris: “Do you know what you’d like this evening, sir?” Ego, voiced by the legendary Peter O’Toole, responds, “Yes, I think I do. After reading a lot of overheated puffery about your new cook, you know what I’m craving? A little perspective. That’s it. I’d like some fresh, clear, well-seasoned perspective. Can you suggest a good wine to go with that?” Waiter…